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In the summer of 2008 I will be taking a pontoon houseboat down the Mississippi River from Minneapolis St. Paul to the Gulf of Mexico. It will be my home and vessel as I descend the mighty Mississip. This will be a healthy and relaxing trip, an adventure worth experiencing, and a good-livin-hell-of-a-time. For six years this trip has been living as a fantastical goal within me. I know the beginning is around the bend, and that makes me smile like I just lost my training wheels.

The boat is not traditional in many ways except for that it floats. It is a unique HPB (human powered boat) that in basic appearance looks like a hybrid between a cataraft on steroids and a traditional houseboat. There are four different systems of propulsion that can be operated individually or in conjunction with one another. Its primary form of power comes from two pedal-driven-propeller stations located at the stern on both sides of the boat. They resemble recumbent bicycles with a propeller instead of wheels. In addition, there is a set of oars for rowing on the front deck. The boat also has, for those occasions when the current is strong, sweeps that can be operated from the top of the cabin. Sweeps are long oars that resemble gigantic hockey sticks. They protrude fore and aft of the boat and are used for steering and lateral movement but not necessarily to gain downstream momentum. Lastly there is an outboard motor that can be used in emergencies, for safety and to make up lost time.

The 3-foot diameter inflatable pontoons are 22 feet long and are attached to a frame constructed from 2” Aluminum pipe. The frame also doubles as the skeletal structure, which supports a hanging floor, two side decks, a front deck and a cabin. Plywood that is cut to the right dimensions and fastened to the aluminum pipe forms the floor and decks. As for the cabin, it is waterproof nylon, canvas and mesh all sewn together and fitted around the aluminum pipe. Inside the cabin there are four berths, a living area, a kitchen and storage. Oh yeah there is a bathroom too, outfitted with all the amenities a camping king would expect.

From June through August I’ll weave approximately 1800 miles through 10 states to the ever-nearing Gulf Coast. Geographically speaking the Mississippi River is separated into two sections, the upper and lower, with the dividing point lying at the confluence with the Ohio River. Both section are as unique as they are long and will offer a river front glimpse at Middle America. One major difference of the Upper Mississippi is that it is a series of pools created by channel dams, while the lower half is free flowing. Due to this, the average current will be much faster downstream of the Ohio River. Along the way I will ‘lock through’ 27 locks, visit the homes of Mark Twain and Elvis, dodge barge traffic, and do some fishing and sunbathing. I intend to explore as much as possible, learn what I can and enjoy life to brim.

If you’d like to come, believe me, I want you to. In fact, I want as much company as possible. The cabin will sleep four, so I hope to have three others with me at all times. The invitation is open to everyone and anyone, family, friends, friends of friends, and especially to characters I meet along the way. There is an itinerary in the blog archive that will help you choose when, where and for how long you would like to join the adventure. Don't worry; I expect the trip will take me 100 days, so you'll have all summer to fit in a Mississippi get-a-way.

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Day 37, 10 Miles - Keokuk to Below the Dam

Beating through the waves towards greener pastures

Through the lock

Welcome to the pasture

The wind hadn’t stopped blowing so I wasn’t real anxious to get out on the water. The sun was high and the clock read noon by the time I shoved off. Evangeline and her crew were just rounding the bend and were caught up to me in no time. We beat against the wind in tandem and had our eyes set on the pool below the Keokuk dam. All three of us were looking forward to faster current, at least it makes the head wind more manageable. “This lake is the roughest on the river” one of the yacht club members told me. “Why I’ve seen 60 foot motor yachts picked up by waves and set down right here on our deck.” Which was a good 2 feet above the water level. Indeed I was ready for no motor and some good easy drifting. The power plant at Keokuk was impressive to say the least and was easily visible from five miles upstream. It has the squarest appearance from that distance; less like a prison than a shoebox with windows. Bill radioed the lockmaster and we were told to wait. “I got a northbound double in the chamber” came the voice on the VHF. I dropped anchor and did some much needed sweeping of shad fly carcasses to pass the time. This lock drops the most feet on the river, that coupled with the wind and no deck hands had me a little concerned, so pulled my life jacket on. We got permission to proceed and everything went well. Instead of holding onto a rope they instructed us to tie off to floating posts that were built into the dock wall. We dropped about 30 feet in ten minutes. It was super cool sitting seemingly in one place as the lock walls towered above us. Finally a real lock; with all the high water most of the locks don’t drop you at all. We were soon out in a steady three-mile an hour current and drifting side by side which is how we stayed through the night. Two hours of floating landed us in a side channel we decide to call home. It was a fantastic day drifting with Evangeline, and we capped it off with target practice, good tunes and some high jumps off the roof into the muddy waters.

4 comments:

Anonymous said...

I hope there is lots of wild shad fly whoopee going on and that those gross little suckers all drop dead! Yuck! Kathy O is a real river trooper but I dont think she will be too happy dressed up in shad fly duds! Wish I was there -enjoyed Lynn and Alice's hospitality in DC last week. My niece lives in Baton Rouge if you need anything there...

Anonymous said...

ps - dont forget our chalk artist friend Craig Thomas who lives one block off the river coming up in Cape Gireadeau.

Anonymous said...

Thanks for the reminder. and the baton rouge tip.
justus

Unknown said...

Hate to tell you but you missed the biggest drops of the river by starting on the Minnesota, however the locks are allot smaller above No 2 so I'm sure No.20 had way more gallons in it. See below courtesy of Wikipedia

St. Anthony Falls and the wheat from the plains built Minneapolis.

Been following and loved the Moline stuff since I grew up there -following Evangeline too - spoke with you the night before you left Russell A. Sorenson Landing. If you ever get back to the Twin Cities I'd be glad to show you the falls - St. Anthony and Minnehaha

Wikipedia:
The uppermost lock and dam on the Mississippi River is the Upper St. Anthony Falls Lock and Dam in Minneapolis, Minnesota. Above the dam, the river's elevation is 799 feet. Below the dam, the river's elevation is 750 feet. This 49 foot drop is the largest of all the Mississippi River lock and dams. The origin of the dramatic drop is a waterfall preserved adjacent to the lock under an apron of concrete. St. Anthony Falls is the only true waterfall on the entire Mississippi River. The water elevation continues to drop steeply as it passes through the gorge carved by the waterfall. By the time the river reaches St. Paul, Minnesota, below Lock and Dam #1, it has dropped more than half its original elevation and is 687 feet above sea level. From St. Paul to the Gulf of Mexico the river elevation falls much more slowly and is controlled and managed as series of pools created by locks and dams.[8]

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