Overview

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In the summer of 2008 I will be taking a pontoon houseboat down the Mississippi River from Minneapolis St. Paul to the Gulf of Mexico. It will be my home and vessel as I descend the mighty Mississip. This will be a healthy and relaxing trip, an adventure worth experiencing, and a good-livin-hell-of-a-time. For six years this trip has been living as a fantastical goal within me. I know the beginning is around the bend, and that makes me smile like I just lost my training wheels.

The boat is not traditional in many ways except for that it floats. It is a unique HPB (human powered boat) that in basic appearance looks like a hybrid between a cataraft on steroids and a traditional houseboat. There are four different systems of propulsion that can be operated individually or in conjunction with one another. Its primary form of power comes from two pedal-driven-propeller stations located at the stern on both sides of the boat. They resemble recumbent bicycles with a propeller instead of wheels. In addition, there is a set of oars for rowing on the front deck. The boat also has, for those occasions when the current is strong, sweeps that can be operated from the top of the cabin. Sweeps are long oars that resemble gigantic hockey sticks. They protrude fore and aft of the boat and are used for steering and lateral movement but not necessarily to gain downstream momentum. Lastly there is an outboard motor that can be used in emergencies, for safety and to make up lost time.

The 3-foot diameter inflatable pontoons are 22 feet long and are attached to a frame constructed from 2” Aluminum pipe. The frame also doubles as the skeletal structure, which supports a hanging floor, two side decks, a front deck and a cabin. Plywood that is cut to the right dimensions and fastened to the aluminum pipe forms the floor and decks. As for the cabin, it is waterproof nylon, canvas and mesh all sewn together and fitted around the aluminum pipe. Inside the cabin there are four berths, a living area, a kitchen and storage. Oh yeah there is a bathroom too, outfitted with all the amenities a camping king would expect.

From June through August I’ll weave approximately 1800 miles through 10 states to the ever-nearing Gulf Coast. Geographically speaking the Mississippi River is separated into two sections, the upper and lower, with the dividing point lying at the confluence with the Ohio River. Both section are as unique as they are long and will offer a river front glimpse at Middle America. One major difference of the Upper Mississippi is that it is a series of pools created by channel dams, while the lower half is free flowing. Due to this, the average current will be much faster downstream of the Ohio River. Along the way I will ‘lock through’ 27 locks, visit the homes of Mark Twain and Elvis, dodge barge traffic, and do some fishing and sunbathing. I intend to explore as much as possible, learn what I can and enjoy life to brim.

If you’d like to come, believe me, I want you to. In fact, I want as much company as possible. The cabin will sleep four, so I hope to have three others with me at all times. The invitation is open to everyone and anyone, family, friends, friends of friends, and especially to characters I meet along the way. There is an itinerary in the blog archive that will help you choose when, where and for how long you would like to join the adventure. Don't worry; I expect the trip will take me 100 days, so you'll have all summer to fit in a Mississippi get-a-way.

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Blog Archive

Day 7, 30 Miles - Red Wing to Wabasha

It couldn't have been much after 5 am when the sun pierced through the canvas. The inside of the cabin really glows and after a week of cloudy weather it was a great way to wake up. Without moving much more than my eye lids I peered through the window and saw no clouds and motionless trees. "John I bet the lake is glass, let's go" I said in my best morning voice. Everyone was out boating. At-least a hundred little fishing boats were launching as part of a weekend long fishing tournament. This is what I expected the river to be like everyday.

About a mile above Lake Pepin a fat cat motor yacht hailed us over. We rowed over to the shore where they were tied up and the skipper yelled "60 mile an hour winds a comin, hunker down." It was simple and to the point. We cranked up the engine and headed for a cove where we joined half a dozen other boats all hunkering down. The storm came out of nowhere and blackened the sky. The rain dumped and we listened intently to the weather station. Four confirmed tornados had touched down just west of us. Amazingly enough the wind never got too intense where we were, but we sure were waiting for the worst. The thunder heads billowed above us and rolled at a furious speed. At the bottom of the cloud cover a twisting white rope-cloud whipped the heavens. It looked to me like a horizontal tornado, and I was glad it was a thousand feet overhead. The deluge only lasted about 40 minutes and then the sun came out as if the maelstrom were only a practical joke. Along with the sun the birds returned and so did all of us water enthusiasts. The lake crossing went smooth as silk and we spent several hours not making any progress but just bobbing and enjoying our good fortune.

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