Rusty the Singing Cabbie

Rusty was over the top friendly and a hoot to ride with. He holds down the fort and as long as he is around, Moline won't be washed away by no flood. A ride in Rusty's cab should definitely be added to the chamber of commerce's top ten list of things to do in Moline.

Can I get twenty six fifty?

Yes, even ZZ Top ride John Deere

This is this only fully restored first model of John Deere tractors

Amazing. The combination of tractors and corn farmers was explosive. Moline was going off. I didn't see quite as many mullets as I expected but it was a home cooking event for sure. What a treat to be privy to such a localized phenomenon. Grandma's sporting J.D. sweatshirts toted their grand children or maybe great grand children around in J.D. strollers. I was surrounded by green and yellow. The auctioneer was incredible. The tractor knowledge tilling around in his brain was unfathomable and his tongue must have set land speed records. Rhys commented that his wife must be satisfied. We had a good laugh over that. 

I'm sold.

Day 28 - Lay Over Moline

Big Getter and Evangeline on the Radison docks in Moline

I rose early, just after the sun, and was still blinking and squinting the crusties out of my eyelids as a walked up to the Radison hotel. Both Bill and I had plugged our marine batteries into an outdoor socket behind their dumpster and I wanted to fetch them before a hotel employee discovered them. As I rounded the corner I saw that they weren't there. I was dismayed and confused in my still half-asleep conscience. No matter how hard I rubbed my eyes the batteries were still not there when I reopened them. Shit. I felt foolish for leaving them unattended and sheepishly headed for the front desk to see what I could find out. It wasn't going to be easy to explain why they were there in the first place. "Hey are you looking for two marine batteries?" a voice comes from behind me. It was the hotel engineer. "I am" I said, unsure of how much trouble I might be in I kept my answer real short. She ended up being nice about it but reminded me that steeling electricity is still steeling. I apologized and she showed me to the batteries. It wasn't right I know and next time I'll ask first.

Arsenal Island Museum

Yesterdays attempt to find the arsenal museum was fruitless and frustrating but last night I met a guy that confirmed that it does indeed exist and is well worth seeing. "Don't miss it" he said. I had to try again and felt confident that I would find it. Rhys and I biked over to the island and having the experienced we gained yesterday, we dismounted our bikes and walked them up to the guard station. He was just doing his job I know, but unfortunately he would not grant us access onto the base. I pleaded and told him that we were glad to leave our bikes and walk in. "You have to be on a motorized Vehicle" he said. "We can track down a car but individuals can hide, no bicyclist or pedestrians are permitted." Wow, 9-11 took an affect here. Not ready to give up, I explained how we had entered the island yesterday, but the guard wouldn't budge. Rhys and I turned our bikes around and with our tails hanging low, rode back over the bridge. What a disappointment. I don't know who is in charge over there but they sure do make it hard for folks to enjoy what they have to offer. If only I could find the man who had highly recommended the museum the previous day. I went looking for him at the auction and low and behold if I didn't run into him. "Oh, yeah. Ill drive you over there." We jumped in his car and off we went, in search of the museum for the third time. Ironically, when we passed the guard house he only asked the driver for his ID. Homeland security is much more of a presence than a solution. The driver's wife, Rhys and I sailed through and could have been donald duck for all the guard knew. We were dropped off at the museum, thanked our ride and enjoyed the exhibit. It is not to be missed. Both Rhys and I were wondering to ourselves how we would get off the island considering we were now 2-3 miles into it's heart. Knowing a little bit about how their system worked, I realized if we could only get noticed as pedestrians a cop would probably escorted us off. Oh no, don't through me in the briar patch. And that is just what happened. I never realized how much people stare when you are let out of the back of a police car. It didn't bother me though, considering we were 20 seconds from our boat.

The wind has now begun to howl up river. It looks like will be staying here another night.

Day 27 - Lay Over Moline

Today was a lay over day but not by choice. The river is closed from lock 15 down to recreational boaters. Rhys, Mike and I spent most of the day cruising around on bikes. Our main goal was to visit Rock Island Arsenal, the Upper Mississippi Army Corp of Engineers' headquarters and the John Deere museum. It just so happened that there was a bike rental place and a 40 mile long trail right next to our dock. We managed to find our way on to the island and the guard allowed us through but because we didn't have helmets we were not allowed to ride the bikes on the island. The headquarters was great and we received all sorts of info. But the real bonus was when one of the employees got the call that both locks 15 and 16 had been opened. It looks like will be back in the saddle tomorrow. Although we asked around about the museum we couldn't find anyone who had even heard of it. Curious. At the John Deere Museum we climbed around on the behemoth combines and pickers like grade schoolers. It was a fantastic scene. There were all sorts of down home boys and farmers clad from head to toe in green and yellow. An article appeared in the Quad City Times this morning about both the Big Getter and the Evangeline. The article was great and led to a number of visits through out the day. A group of four teenagers came to check it out and also told us about a indoor football game at the i Wireless Arena. They described it as a hard hitting, fast paced version of NFL. We were sold on the idea and bought our tickets immediately. 

Quad Cities

Day 26, 17 Miles - Princeton to Moline

Well there is good news and bad news. Bad news first of coarse. We are in stuck in Moline waiting for lock 15 to open up for pleasure crafts. Aaron and Johnny are getting off. OK, now for the good news. Rhys and Homer are getting on. John Deere has a massive presence here. I actually saw a man wearing John Deere suspenders earlier tonight. There is a tractor auction for the next two days. We have a BB gun and 2 thousand bbs, thanks to Aaron and Johnny. Right now we are trying to sink a coke bottle tied to the end of a 12 foot rope. Wish you were here.

Prairie du Chien Newspaper Article

Day 25, 17 Miles - Clinton to Princeton

The flood water reached the bottom of the windows of this house on stilts

A little drizzle doesn't keep us from working

An ariel photo of Big Getter, Go Fish and their flood damaged docks.

The photo was taken by Captain Steve Nemo.

We started the day off in a little drizzle and it added to my anxiety about getting under a railroad trestle just downstream. The river is closed to barge traffic right now due to the flooding, so all of the swing bridges are closed to allow trains to pass. We scoped it out yesterday with DeeAnn and Rich, so I knew it was going to be a close fit. The fact that Big Getter has inflatable pontoons could come in very handy in this situation I thought. We could always take some air out and lower our height by about 6 inches. Aaron and Johnny helped me prepare by stowing the flagpole, light and anything else that is normally on the roof. The Big Getter’s roof sits about 7 feet off the water and the bridge I estimated to have about a 7-foot clearance. My heart was definitely pumping at an abnormal rate. I motored up to the bridge where I saw the least current and turned to face upstream. Gunning the motor I realized I could get back up stream if we weren’t going to sneak under and started to relax a little. Johnny was up front and Aaron poised in the stern ready to twist the sweeps to prevent their blades from catching. Ten feet upstream of the bridge Johnny said “No problem” and Aaron agreed. “We got this” he said. I kept the motor running and we cleared the under side by about 8 inches as we drifted under it backwards. I breathed easy and the sun cam out about the same time.

We drifted the rest of the day unencumbered and enjoy the sights. We passed a riverfront community that had been flooded by what looked to be a good 6-8 feet. There were water lines above the windows and the remnants of sandbag walls just barely visible at the now receding water line. Our aim was to get down to Princeton to eat at a burger joint called Go Fish. Some sixty miles upstream we started hearing rumors of the restaurant so we didn’t want to miss it. Not in a hurry by any means we drifted at a slow pace and read on the upper deck. About dinnertime, when Princeton rounded the bend, we were passing by a monolith-sized plant of some sort. The thing that got our attention were the rows of chain link fence, concertina wire and a number of raised guardhouses. The facility looked like a maximum-security prison. After brainstorming for a while we realized that it must be a nuclear plant. Soon, at Go Fish we would learn that indeed it was a nuclear plant that supplied Chicago with power. The local power here in Princeton comes from a coal plant just down river. The burgers were scrumptious and we were enjoying the river view we the Twilight passed us by. I sorry we didn’t get that whistle blast I was hoping for, but seeing the same vessel day after day makes me feel part of the river community.

Availability as of June 25th

Day 24, 15 Miles - Sabula to Clinton

   (Im the second rider if you couldn't tell)

Yabba dabba doo. DeeAnn and Rich, a couple that we met at camp Nemo for breakfast the other day brought their son Brian and their motorboat to Clinton this evening. They invited us along for a “real boat ride and we went skipping across the water with them. If this really were the days of Barney Rubble and Fred Flintstone we would have had stegosaurus hipbones instead of wake boards. Instead of going back in time however, we ended up in a futuristic, post-apocalyptic scene of industry. Smoke stacks pumped fiery belches and towers of catwalks and instrumentation forested the landscape. The slough however was calm and provided the wake boarding terrain that Brian was after. He made jumping the wakes look easy. I watched how he leaned as he carved and noticed he stood tall and relaxed on the out swing. From port to starboard, he would slingshot off the wakes and then back again, flying through the air each way. After a few nasty looking wipeouts and a slightly bruised face I was convinced to try it. I surprised myself that I could even get up on the thing but was not gracious by any standard. The board kicked right out from under me several times and I struggled to maneuvered form one side to the other. It was a blast though, and I laughed after every fall.

Beaver Slough

The "Real Boat Ride"

Martians Attack

Twilight

The Steamer Twilight passed us again this afternoon headed northbound. She sits four stories off the water and contrasts the muddy waters and greenery of the shoreline with a regal blue and white paint job. Her balconies wrap full around and the wood detailing is gracious. I conjure images of the early 1900s passengers aboard her decks. Men clad in vests that carry canes of stature and puff pipe tobacco. The women turn their backs to the wind in order to save their bowed hats from sailing overboard. I hailed them on the radio to say hello. “This is Big Getter to Twilight.” “Twilight here, let’s go to 12.” I switched channels and asked what their route was? “Le Claire to Dubuque. Up one day back the next.” The pilot answered. “I sure have enjoyed watching you pass by.” I say. “ Us too, the passengers ask what we know about your boat. That’s the finest boat I’ve seen out here in years.” I thanked him for the compliment and gave him the low down on our venture. Tomorrow the Twilight will pass by us again and I expect we will get a whistle blast hello.

Day 23, 15 Miles - Mile Marker 550 to Sabula

One of many bunkers near bomb shell beach

Hard at work, but don't worry he'll take a break soon

Not sure what the hell it is?

 The hospitality and good will of the people who live on the river continues to awe me. It's not just me who is impressed with the midwesterners, everyone who has come aboard the Big Getter has agreed and commented on the unbelievably nice folks in this part of our country. Many people have offered rides, gifts, information, home-cooked meals and food to go. Just this evening as we finished the deer jerky and summer sausage that Don and Tara gave to me back in Prairie du Chien we were approached by some visitors who offered us a ride into town if we needed any supplies. Thank you to all, your good will will be returned and know that I will pass on the karma when I can.

Buoy Betting

Watch to find out how buoy betting works. Aaron put 10 to 1 odds that we would hit this one. Johnny and I chose Right and left. You'll see who wins.

Blogosphere

It has come to my attention that there are some of you out there who notice when I don’t get my nightly post uploaded. I am trying my best but there are holes in the blogosphere.

Day 22, 12 Miles - Luke's Landing to Bomb shell beach

    
      Morning rush hour                           Iowa's ski resort

    
10 member pyramid                 Old machins shop in Bellevue

     

                  Twilight                                 The sun deck

     

  Bomb shell beach                       Twilight II

Email from JL

From: “Johnny Lawless”
To: justusmclarty@yahoo.com


Hi Justus Great to hear from you. Been on a flat run since I got back. We have had 2 1/2 inches of rain since I got back and the weeds and grass are about to cover me up. Another week and the mosquitoes will be back.
Have all the stoves off the truck and now turning to catch up on other business. Wont be any spare time till probably after the first freeze.
I am still excited about my time spent with you and the "Big Getter". That was a trip I will never, ever forget. Some of the impressions I remember; First, sitting on the side of the road, late at night, with 90 miles to get to Minneapolis, in a somewhat dangerous traffic situation, with a blowout on the trailer. Being told by "U-Haul", "Well, you just have to spend the night at a motel tonight" When you told them, "We have tonight to get to Minneapolis, tomorrow to build a boat so we can make the target date of June 1st launch. So sorry U-haul, failure is not an option. You need to send your wrecker to pick up this empty wreck, we are done with it." At that point, I knew you are as hard headed as me and not much was going to be successful at standing in our way.
I had after us taking the framework apart and loading it all, then unloading and assembling the craft, it was a large raft in my mind. Then as soon as I boarded and started seeing the other boats and getting hammered by storms and navigating on the already swollen mighty Mississippi. I realized this "Big Getter" in this environment, is not so damn "Big". I saw rain like this ole west Texas dirt boy has never seen before. I remember at one point the line between the river and the rain disappeared and it just looked as though it was all solid water. I also remember several times, thinking, "Damn, this looks like a flood". Locals, friends and family kept calling and reporting the news of flooding, storms and wind, hail and tornadoes. Was not long into my trip, I had realized that you were very capable of handling the situation, and that if we were to be in a flood, that this "Big Getter" was a damn good place to be after all. But not all of my time was bad weather. It was also very beautiful some days. Again the "Big Getter" preformed flawlessly. Another impression was how fast a load of barges can turn around a corner. Ha! Don't have to explain that one, do I ? So, my friend. As history will show, The year you decided to do the Mississippi river turns out to be the "Flood of 08" and I know you have a very eventful trip left ahead of you. I hope that as well as you write, that maybe a book in the future. Be a good one for the "Library". One other reflection, I think they have different driving practices in Israel.
The time you were able to spend with your granddad and parents are of most importance. Although you have your own path or in this case river to run, embrace the times spent with them. Mine are now all left to memories and someday yours will be too.
Now, Make Mr. JB and Aaron take some time off to relax. I really, wish I were there to spend today with you guys. I am in spirit and mind. Have a good time and be careful.

-Johnny Lawless

PS: Also wanted to say, I am really impressed with the stability of the Big Getter. Has a solid footprint and never seemed to have the slightest problem with wind or waves. Great design

JL

Midwest Nice

Camp Nemo (thanks DeeAnn)

Stow Aways

Big Getter Crew

It was perfect sleeping weather and after a few hours of relaxing and recovering from Luke’s Landing’s beach party we headed for breakfast. Maybe Hyfte’s expression “Minnesota Nice” should be modified to “Midwest Nice.” It doesn’t have quite the ring, but it holds just as much water. Luke’s family and neighbors were all there and a gregarious bunch too. Their “cabin” sits on the riverbank in a side channel and is richly shaded and airy. The setting was superb and I loved hearing them talk about who was in the motorboats as they whizzed by. I extended the invitation for them to accompany us for an afternoon and wouldn’t be at all surprised if one of them takes up the offer. We said adios and motored a tad to get out into the main flow. Immediately after shutting down the engine we all assumed our positions on top of the cabin. As Aaron crossed his legs and sank into his chair he said “back to work.”

Mississippi living

Moveable boat hoist

Dy 21, 17 Miles - Dubuque to four miles above Bellevue

A barge that has been wrapped around the bridge pilling from last weeks high water

A working mans smile

Luke's Landing beach party

“Well, we’re here” I keep saying and then chuckle to myself because each time it’s true no matter where we are. Aaron, Johnny and I have been chillaxing like retirees and enjoying the tail wind and high water. The combination of which is tastier than biscuits and gravy. The 17 miles drifted by timelessly. Most of our entertainment came from placing bets as to which side of the buoys we would pass. We kept score and one buoy in particular proved us all wrong. How did that happen you might ask? Well, we didn’t go left or right we went right over it. A close call is an understatement. We plowed right into it. By the afternoon we had found a beach to call home for the evening and helped spice up an impromptu beach party. A bottle of blue something or another was being passed around by a couple of girls who would only let you take a shot if you followed all the rules (I can’t quite remember what those rules were.) I cooked chicken spaghetti for some of our new friends and as we said goodbye they returned the favor by inviting us to breakfast at their house.

Day 20, 20 Miles - Finley's Landing to Dubuque

Looking up river from Lock 11

Saying goodbye

Dubuque

Big and Bigger

Saying goodbye is seldom easy. I was sad to see Marvin and my parent go. Alice has had notoriously wet weather on some recent camping trips so the ever present sun sealed the deal for her. She got to see lots of turtles too, so that helped. Lynn could have stayed on another week or two easy I think and could hardly put the binoculars down. He’s become quite the birder and is already scheming about the next Big Getter venture. Marvin couldn’t have a bad time if someone paid him, so he was shoe in for sure. He exclaimed numerous times on a daily basis, “this is a hundred percent different kind of river trip.” That’s true too. One of the highlights of most river trips is the solitude and remoteness; this adventure however, is chalk o block full of socializing. We said goodbye in Dubuque after visiting the Mississippi River Museum. We all agreed it was on par if not higher caliber than some of the Smithsonians. There were many interactive stations and exhibits. My favorites were the fly over video of the entire Mississippi valley and the model replica of the river floor at Dubuque that you could control the water flow to see the effects of floodwater. Its been a pleasure having family and friends aboard and I know it will only continue.

Day 19, 7 Miles - Cassville to Finley's Landing

Sometimes a lunch spot transforms into a swimming hole and lunch hour turns into naptime. As the shade trees provide more our motivation wanes. I suggested, “let’s just stay here tonight,” but everyone else had already decided to do just that. What more could you want. Life is good. Deadlines and timetables are almost non-existent. We have a beach beneath our toes, an unrivaled view and spirits that are alive with sun and water .Our calendar is only 4 pages long, and we are turned to the summer page.